)( .). As previously stated, there is one bolt connected to an L bracket under the union of the manifold. You should not need to use that much force. Please see our article on cylinder head removal for additional assistance. Some of the nuts had a little rust on them, but all the studs looked perfect. I myself did a full motor rebuild and took on and off the headers no problem with the head studs still on. With the stud double nutted, the stud will walk right out from the head (yellow arrow). Any good info is appreciated. You cannot remove the manifolds without removing the studs from the head. all about the right tool for the job, lol! Even if the gaskets have a sealant on them, the intake should start to move and break free before the engine will start to shift. If you break off a stud there is a good chance you are going to have to pull the head to remove the broken stud. If you break a stud off there is a very good chance that you are going to have to pull the head to remove the broken stud.
Is there something I'm missing? It was real easy with the engine out. There doesn't seem to be enough room to get a good grip on the nuts on #2 and #3. I'm pretty sure I will be able to get them tight when I put them back with new studs and nuts, I would not even want to put them back on with the rusty studs. This is not a job I would want to do again any time soon. any mexican exhaust shop would be able to do it for dirt cheap, orale calmado compa! Its just behind and below the dip stick bracket on the S1 (8v) motors. I was so wrapped up in the engine removal that I totally forgot to take pics.
Use a 12mm socket from below (red arrows) and a 13mm wrench from above (yellow arrows) and remove the nuts and bolts. ??? if you just fill the crack with weld, then yeah it will break again. I have attempted an open end wrench to loosen them and after the wrench slipped off once, I stopped, I am afraid of rounding off the nuts. You're going to laugh but I had an old aircraft mechanic tell me to smear both sides of the exhaust gasket with high heat silicone. So I am having all sorts of trouble getting my intake manifold off. Please see our article on fuel injector and rail removal for additional information. Ever wondered what it's like to own a Porsche 944 classic car? There is a coolant line that runs above the manifolds that you will need to remove so you will need to drain the coolant to below this level. 8 to the head, one on the drivers (us) side block. I will be removing the cross member and dropping it out the bottom. Ummm, just wanted to throw something out there, i didnt see in the initial thread anything about the spark plugs being pulled. obv tis goes without saying remove the coolant pipe with a COLD ENGINE so there is less pressure, the 6 exhaust bolts at the collectors (end of the manifold) and have a friend pry down the lower exhaust (they are on rubber hangers) whilst you remove the headers by … Pelican Parts Catalog for Porsche, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, MINI and More. And looking good with the heat shield installed! http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/fuel-09.pdf, http://www.texasblake.com/porsche/tech/icv.html.
(which, some things on the car look like someone was there before). I put some on my 944 a month ago and torqued down the nuts, no leaks yet. 85.5 5spd,LSD,Full Sachs Clutch Kit,Throttle Cam,Bursch Header, catless, Borla muffler, back-lit gauges,Bilstein rear shocks,KYB strut inserts, Strut Brace, 944online PRFM chip, 15' factory BBS's and 16" D90's,rebuilt motor,reworked head,turbo valve springs,raised compression,WebCam grind #274. I am sure putting them back on will be much easier with the engine out of the car.
How hard should I be striking the manifold with the rubber mallet? If you are leaving the camshaft cover in place use a 6mm Allen and remove the two bolts holding the line in place (red arrows). Pelican Parts Catalog for Porsche, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, MINI and More. All that's left is the injectors in the manifold and the manifold itself. if it takes 15 minuets to do id be surprised. I took off the power steering pump, ac compressor, alternator, headers, radiator, and driver side motor mount. Please see our article on safely raising and supporting your vehicle. Its really not that hard to do, i wont go as far to say there is plenty of clearance, but there is enough to get them out using the double nut method. Will definitely do all 4 gaskets while I'm in there - I'm figuring 2-3 hours for the job, not including a couple days of WD40 soaking. Does your car have the cast iron headers? So I thought I'd try it. I attached the engine hoist loop from the alternator bracket using the threaded hole for the water return rail. Does anyone know what the outcome of this was? The ends are secured with stainless steel ties - I found using a vice grip made it easier to tighten them up. If you can count 8 intake bolts, did you take the "hidden" rear/underneath/drivers side intake bolt out?
Run your hand from the bottom of the boot that connects the manifold to the airbox, back to almost the dead center of the 4-1 union. With the gap between the suspension turret and engine now big enough the manifolds slip in with a little manoeuvring - I started with the outside (1-4) manifolds then the smaller 2-3 slipped in. I have disconnected all vacuum lines and the throttle cable. Past posts on the forum talk about soaking the nuts in PB / WD40 for a while, then being "very careful" not to break the studs - I presume this means cranking the nuts off slowly and attempting to not apply an lateral forces when torquing. There's NINE total bolts holding the manifold to the car.
Did some more reading.
What is the best method to attack the removal of the exhaust manifolds? Removing the bellhousing from the Porsche 944 engine is not as complicated as it may seem - such as in this situation with my replacement engine. I don't want to pry on it since I have fears of damaging the head or the manifold. I didn't end up cutting the gaskets, I just pulled the headers all the way off the studs.I found that unbolting the headers from the collectors was enough to get the headers off the studs. 944 Forum › 944 Forums › 944/2 › Exhaust Manifold Removal (Moderators: XxSteve944onlinexX, IAN - 944ONLINE) ‹ Previous Topic | Next Topic › Pages:  2 : Send Topic Print: Exhaust Manifold Removal (Read 2797 times) Up On Ramps. Installation is the reverse of removal. Thanks again for the advice. LOL. I suspect that it was that support bolt under the manifold on the side of the engine holding things in place. It is best if you can do this over a few days and heat cycles before you attempt to remove everything.
Can't figure why it doesn't burn out but it's all holding!
When I removed the original engine I detached it from the bellhousing in the car and removed the clutch pressure plate bolts through the starter motor hole -. Sometimes it can take a while for this to loosen the rust but then using the ratchet wrench, they were easy to remove, he said. Took my headers of to replace the gaskets and my arts and craft ideas took over me and repainter the headers black. the pipe the runs parallel will need to be taken off if you want the headers to come out with ease. Pulling the tops of the Y's together?
If I take the header all the way off, will I have enough give in the attachment to the pipe lower down the exhaust system, or will I have to disconnect the header at both the manifold and the lower pipe? These bolts can be a pain to remove. Depending on what they used will determine how easily it comes up. The writer started by WE-40ing the nuts. Run your hand from the bottom of the boot that connects the manifold to the airbox, back to almost the dead center of the 4-1 union.
�You've obviously missed a bolt somewhere, I would continue to check everything until you've found it. Getting the manifolds in place proved to be impossible until I lifted the right hand side of the engine with an engine hoist - so it tipped towards the opposite side of the car. There was an article about this and installing a 3" MSDS or Bursch header in an Excellence mag sometime back. but i promise you it will take less time to remove the headers with the studs on than removing them.
There's NINE total bolts holding the manifold to the car. Rebuilt engine.&&'05 Toyota Echo - Every other fuel economy day.&&'07 Mazda 6 - When the family *absolutely* comes first. they Will com off easier than you would think, its just like a puzzle, you just have to play with it.
I plan to take pics to document the removal so they can be posted for other member's benefit. I got them off - I used a some heat, kroil, and a long cold chisel with a three pound hammer. Next, safely raise and support the vehicle. I've been hunting down an intermittent idle issue on TheHoff since our last Brand Hatch excursion - which led not only to testing & replacing parts but also eliminating others and making one completely from scratch! You can see in the photo that I have removed several other components for photographic purposes; you do not need to do this but removing the camshaft cover will give you a lot more room to work. The problem I had was that rear bolts for #2 & #3, there was not enough clearance to be a box end wrench or a socket.
I'm only showing the manifold side. )( .).
Use a 12mm socket from below (red arrows) and a 13mm wrench from above (yellow arrows) and remove the nuts and bolts.
I just got back inside from putting my entire exhaust back on. Remove both nuts and washers from the flange and then double nut (red arrows) one stud at a time. Aircraft exhaust gaskets are BAD to leak. As I'm fitting the later versions I wanted to cover them in heat wrap before installing. Have you read the "Intake removal instructions: on Clarks? but if you really want to remove the studs, you could use the double nut method but that is also unnecessary, the studs themselves on the end have a allen wrench key. The exhaust is actually two manifolds, one for the number two and three cylinders (red arrows) and one for the number one and four (yellow arrows). Drain the coolant to below this line's level and remove the two hose connections (red arrow, one shown), and remove the hard line. I have removed all the bolts for the intake and I found the bolt on the drivers side motor mount wasn't even installed. Begin by soaking everything in penetrating oil. While going through the steps to clean and reseal what I could with the engine in place, I have come to find that the rear main seal appears to be leaking. Can you elaborate on the bracing? I have lifted hard enough that it shifts the engine.
You should be prepared to have a few break. So that wasn't the issue. I have taken off all the intake bolts and taken off the fuel rail. Haha, "Atomic Batteries to Power, Turbines to Speed, Ready to move out! leverage is your friend. There is not much room to double nut the studs with the washers on (red arrows). So here's the data from the header pull - shots of the gaskets that I pulled off.
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